Printing your publication

Shine asked two printers for their advice on turning a school newspaper or magazine into copies readers can hold.

In this online guide, Andy O’Brien at Metro Printing and Jon Tolley at Precision Proco offer their step by step approach, from first plan to finished copies.

Getting started

You do not need to be a print expert to make a great magazine. Start with your readers, make a few practical choices and bring a printer into the conversation early.

Printing a product you have designed involves preparing the artwork, selecting suitable materials and finishes, and checking a proof before production. The exact process may vary depending on the product, printer and intended use, but the following provides a practical overview.

 

Plan from the finished copy backwards

When planning, it is often worth trying to plan back to front: what do you want to hold, feel and touch once your project has been printed? This will enable you to work correctly from the start of the design and make production easier throughout the process without having to backtrack at any point.

If you know what you want as your end product and you want physical printed copies, you can plan this early and contact printing companies so you can gain quotes and assess your budget. Most printing companies will now quote for you using the most cost-effective technology, whether that be digital or litho print. The printer should be able to advise if you are not sure of your exact specification.

 

More information:

Start with a simple brief

Agree what you are making before the team starts designing. Jon suggests four questions:

  • Who is it for?
    Think about pupils, parents or the wider community. Decide what readers should discover, enjoy or do after reading.
  • What can you afford?
    Set a total budget and a realistic quantity. Ask for prices at two or three quantities and include delivery, proofs and any finishing.
  • What is the format?
    A4 gives photographs and features room to breathe. A5 feels compact and portable. Standard sizes often use paper efficiently; ask your printer to compare.
  • When must it arrive?
    Work backwards from the launch date. Allow time for writing, editing, design, a proof, corrections, printing, binding and delivery.

Templates and quick online pricing
Online print sites such as WTTB often offer artwork templates and quick pricing. Compare sizes, papers, page counts and quantities before you commit.

A sensible first specification
Try A4 portrait, saddle stitched, 32 pages in total, with 130gsm silk throughout. Ask for a second quote with a heavier cover and compare physical samples.

Choose your paper

Choose the material on which the product will be printed, such as paper or card. Consider the product’s purpose, the feel you want it to have and the conditions it will be exposed to.

Materials for brochures, newsletters and magazines tend to be one of either gloss paper, silk paper or uncoated paper. Gloss and silk are more traditional for corporate brochures and will usually have a heavier cover. Uncoated is considered a little more “designery” and has a slightly rougher finish but is a little more tactile. Fashion and home titles often use this to give that fabric kind of look.

What does ‘gsm’ mean?
Grams per square metre measures paper weight, not its exact thickness. Two stocks with the same gsm can have different bulk, opacity and feel.

Jon recommends getting paper samples before you decide, because paper changes how a magazine looks, feels and handles.

  • 130gsm silk art paper: a strong starting point. A smooth coated paper with a subtle sheen. It balances photographs and longer articles well. A useful first choice for the inside pages of a school magazine.
  • 130gsm gloss art paper: compare a test. A shiny coated surface that gives a lively, image-led feel. Reflections can be noticeable under bright lights. Ask to see the same photograph and text printed on silk and gloss.
  • Uncoated: a different character. A more tactile, less reflective surface, often suited to illustration or a newspaper-inspired design. Images can look softer; choose with a printed sample rather than a screen preview.
  • Cover choices. A self-cover uses the same stock throughout. A separate 200-250gsm cover can feel more substantial; ask the printer which weight works with your page count and binding.

Add a finish with purpose

Depending on your choice of printer, you may need to speak with them about how to supply that part of the artwork, but usually if it’s a foil it would be supplied as a separate layer named ‘Gold foil’.

Make one detail count
If the budget allows, use a finish on the title or a simple cover shape. Ask for the supplier’s artwork template before building the effect.

Spend where readers will notice
Prioritise readable pages, good images, proofreading and a physical proof before spending on decorative finishes

  • Silk or gloss paper is not lamination.
    The paper surface and a finish added after printing are different choices. Coated art paper can be used without a laminated cover.
  • Matt or gloss lamination.
    A thin film applied to a cover can add protection. Matt gives a quieter surface; gloss creates stronger reflections. Ask about suitability, cost and recycling options for the actual material.
  • Soft touch, spot UV and foil.
    Soft touch adds a velvety feel. Spot UV adds shiny detail to selected areas. Foil adds a metallic effect. These usually need special artwork layers or masks and extra production time.

Binding and page count

Binding affects your page count, how the magazine opens and how you build the cover. There are two main options: stitched (folded and stapled) and perfect bound (glued at the spine). ‘PUR’ binding, described below, is a type of perfect binding.

Try to plan your page count if you can. For stapled booklets it needs to be in multiples of 4. These are made from sections of folded sheets, which will nearly always have four printed pages (4pp), and generally suit smaller page counts, maybe up to 50 pages.

Perfect-bound booklets (like magazines) need to be in multiples of 2 and are generally for larger page counts, probably over 50 pages.

Saddle stitched booklets are folded, nested and usually fastened with two wire staples through the fold. It is a practical option for shorter magazines and opens relatively freely. There is no square spine for a printed spine title.

PUR bound. The page block is glued into a wraparound cover using polyurethane reactive adhesive. It produces a square spine and suits a thicker publication. It needs enough spine thickness and does not open flat like a centre spread in a stitched magazine.

  • Choose with your printer
    Maximum stitched thickness and minimum PUR thickness depend on paper and equipment. PUR is a type of adhesive binding; it does not mean that pages are sewn.
  • Build a paper dummy
    Fold a few sheets and number every side. Map out the cover, contents, features and final page.
  • Deliberate blanks are fine; accidental blanks waste space
    Supply reading order, not printer-imposed pairs such as 32 + 1.

Count pages, not sheets

  • One printed side is one page, often written as 1pp. Blank sides count too.
  • Stitched: work in multiples of 4. One folded sheet creates four pages. Plan 16, 20, 24, 28 or 32 pages, for example. A 32-page self-cover magazine includes the front cover, inside front cover, inside back cover and back cover.
  • PUR: even numbers, with a caveat. PUR interiors can often be made in multiples of 2 because each leaf has two sides. Some presses and folded-section workflows need larger multiples. Confirm the permitted count and minimum thickness before you design.
  • Make the quote unambiguous. Say “28pp text + 4pp cover = 32 pages overall”, rather than simply “32 pages plus cover”. For
  • PUR, agree the interior page count separately from the four cover faces.

Tip:
Right-hand pages are normally odd numbered; left-hand pages are even. A front cover may have no visible page number but still counts.

Four layouts to try

Jon proposes four wireframes as starting points, but use your own photography, illustration and editorial voice.

  • 01: Feature opener
    One strong image, a clear headline and a short introduction. Let the story breathe.
  • 02: News page
    A consistent two-column grid, short stories, captions and clear separation.
  • 03: Interview
    A portrait alongside questions and answers. Pull out one memorable quote.
  • 04: Photo essay
    A simple image grid with captions. Vary the scale to create a focal point.

For more on design principles, see our layout and design guidance

Set up your pages: bleed, trim and safe areas

  • Design at the finished page size
    Bleed is extra artwork outside that size.
  • Bleed
    Extend backgrounds and edge images past the trim. A common allowance is 3mm on each edge.
  • Trim
    The final cut edge. A4 finishes at 210 × 297mm.
  • Safe area
    Keep text, logos and page numbers at least 5mm inside trim as a starting point.
  • Give the page more breathing room
    For a comfortable A4 layout, try 12-15mm outer margins and a larger inner margin where needed. A minimum safe area is a production allowance, not a recommended reading margin.
  • A4 with 3mm bleed on all sides occupies 216 × 303mm before any printer’s marks
    Keep the trim size set to A4; do not enlarge the document page itself. Confirm bleed, inner-edge treatment and safety distances with your printer.

Make two pages work as one

A spread is a pair of facing pages. The centre join is the gutter.

Keep the important bit away from the join. Wide landscapes, textures and illustrations can cross a spread beautifully. Avoid putting a face, a word, a logo or a fine vertical line on the centre join: small shifts or hidden image area will be obvious.

Allow for the binding. The centre spread of a stitched magazine is the easiest place for a continuous image. Other spreads can shift slightly. PUR hides some image area near the spine, so allow a generous gutter and request the printer’s guidance on crossover compensation.

Design with facing pages, then normally export the interior as single pages in reading order. Do not manually duplicate or offset artwork at the spine without the printer’s instructions.

Sharp images, predictable colour

A bright screen is a preview, not a promise of the printed result.

  • Use the original image. Aim for about 300 pixels per inch (ppi) at the final placed size for photographs. An A4 image needs roughly 2,480 × 3,508 pixels, before bleed. Enlarging an image reduces its effective resolution; changing its ppi label does not add detail.
  • Keep type and logos crisp. Use vector artwork for logos and keep text as text in the PDF with fonts embedded. Avoid screenshots of pages and images copied from social media. Check captions, image credits and permissions with your teacher.
  • Set up colour for the printer. CMYK means cyan, magenta, yellow and black: the usual four process printing inks. RGB is screen colour. Ask for the printer’s CMYK profile and export instructions; convert with that profile when requested. Avoid an arbitrary profile or repeated conversions.
  • Check the result. Very bright RGB colours may look duller in print. Soft-proof if your software supports it and use a physical proof for colour-critical work. Small black text is usually 100% K only; ask about rich black for large solid areas.
  • PDF/X-4 can contain colour-managed RGB. Selecting that preset alone does not guarantee an all-CMYK file.

Export the print file

Export the finished artwork in the file format requested by the printer. A print-ready PDF is commonly used and is the industry standard, although other formats may be accepted.

Follow the printer’s specification and template before any generic advice.

  1. Check the document
    Confirm trim size, binding, page count, cover stock and final content. Resolve missing images, missing fonts, low-resolution warnings and overset text.
  2. Export a print-quality PDF
    Use the requested preset, often PDF/X-4. Retain suitable image resolution and embed fonts. Include the agreed bleed; add crop marks only if requested. Avoid web or smallest-file-size presets.
  3. Separate the cover when needed
    Normally send interior pages as single pages in reading order. For PUR, use a separate cover file built to the supplied template: back cover + confirmed spine + front cover, with inner cover artwork if needed. Follow glue and hinge clearances.
  4. Open the exported file
    Inspect every page at a readable size and zoom into images and small type. Check the first and last pages, blank pages, bleed, page boxes and colour separations. Ask the printer to preflight anything your software cannot verify.

Exporting from Canva

Many Shine teams design in Canva. Andy explains the settings to use:

  • Depending on your software there are slightly different ways of exporting, but generally for printing in Canva: Share → Download → File type = PDF, Print, CMYK (best for professional printing), ensuring you have crop marks and bleed ticked.
  • Flattening your PDF will ensure nothing gets missed when creating it.
  • Then download. Once downloaded, open the file and check it is as it should be. You should see trim marks as below, with any image extending beyond the trim marks.
  • In Canva, crop marks and bleed share one setting. If your printer asks for bleed without crop marks, let them know you are exporting from Canva.

By the way…

If your designs are done through Canva, print can be done through Canva too. It’s an easy process to submit via their platform and it will land to press for processing faster than manually ordering a job.

Proofs and placing the order

Depending on who you are using to print your product, you may be able to request a proof. Usually this would be a PDF that may look just the same as the PDF you sent to the printer, but they would have checked it for suitability for print and hopefully will flag any issues with the file, such as low-quality images. Some online companies offer this and some don’t.

It is really important you check your file very carefully before sending it to the printer. Even if they provide a proof, they may charge for any amendments that need to be made.

Approve a proof. Print a folded dummy for sequence and reading. Ask what a supplier’s proof checks: a PDF proof is not a paper or colour proof. Have a second person check it, then agree final approval with your teacher.

Confirm the production details:
Provide the printer with the approved artwork and confirm the quantity, material, size, finish, packaging, delivery address and required date. Clarify any questions about the quotation, setup charges or production times before authorising the order.

What to tell your printer:

“We are producing an A4 school magazine: 28pp text plus a 4pp cover, 130gsm silk inside, saddle stitched. Please quote for our quantities and advise on cover stock, bleed, PDF settings, proof options and delivery.”

Your final handover checklist

Use this list at the last team meeting before the files leave school.

  • Quantity, budget, delivery address and deadline agreed.
  • Size, paper, cover, binding and finishing confirmed.
  • Page count works for the printer’s binding workflow.
  • Spelling, facts, names, captions and permissions checked.
  • Bleed extends fully; text and faces sit safely inside.
  • Images are sharp at their final size; fonts are embedded.
  • Colour conversion and PDF settings match the brief.
  • Final PDF checked page by page; proof signed off.

When your copies arrive

When the printed products arrive, check them carefully to make sure they are what you expected and the quality is good. Check the print quality, colour consistency, trimming, folding, finishing and overall appearance.

Report any issues to the printer promptly and keep the approved proof and final artwork for future reference.

Our thanks to Andy O’Brien at Metro Printing and Jon Tolley at Precision Proco for sharing their expertise with Shine students.